Tag Archives: swim

Oribi Mom: Shells, Shells, and Shells

“We didn’t take any shells away from our travels in these magical places; that would be against the rules.”

 

There’s something about shells that has always fascinated me. Since I can remember, I’ve felt a calm descend as I walk slowly through the sand. I glance here and there to find the prettiest, most interesting shells the beach has to offer for the day.

Sometimes, you have to look for a tiny point sticking out among grains of sand before sticking your toe in and flipping it out to reveal what’s underneath. Sometimes, it’s just a piece. Other times, it’s an unexpected masterpiece that you can’t stop looking at in your hand.

Beaches Around the World Have Shells For Us To Find

When we were on the north coast in the school holidays, seeing old dried turtle eggs on the dunes was very exciting. It reminded me about the time we arrived at a beach in Kenya for a few days with family. It was raining. We jumped out of the car after a flight and a taxi ride from Nairobi. People were running to the beach to watch tiny hatchling green turtles emerging.

Only God could have timed that for us.

Those little turtles were awe-inspiring. Working with all their might to get out from their deep nest under the sand and poking out their heads into the rainy afternoon. They were absolutely covered in sand and moving their flippers constantly to try and move forward. Slow, awkward moments made their path a long one. but they kept going until they reached the shoreline. They’re so fast once they’re in the water; unbelievably fast after watching them struggle on the beach!

Another Fantastic Beach – The Tip of the Dog’s Ear in Borneo

Two years before that, we’d spent a month in Malaysia Borneo. My Number One favourite memory was diving in to snorkel in the Coral Triangle, the same area as the world-famous dive site Sipadan. The turquoise sea is stunning when you’re on the little speed boat. But once you dip the mask down into the salty water, it’s indescribable.

Incredible.

Paradise.

Colours as you’ve never seen them and moving things everywhere you look. The mantis shrimps shimmered next to blue spotted rays and parrot fish and thousands of other creatures going about their day.

But seeing the turtles was just magical. Huge green turtles you could ride on if you could catch them – you can’t, they’re too fast! – and munching on sea grass or zipping by in the current. Hawksbill turtles, too if we were lucky, big and small.

Thankfully, the military shells around Sipadan weren’t in action while we were in the area, though we did hear shots and explosions every now and then. Apparently, it was just a normal thing and we were told to ignore the sounds and rather focus on remembering to put on sun-cream.

Don’t Take Shells, Just Memories

We didn’t take any shells away from our travels in these magical places; that would be against the rules. But we did take a big cowrie home from our favourite North Coast beach. It was one that my then-boyfriend snorkelled to find deep in the reef so that he could use it as a ring holder. But that story, involving secret sibling setups and too-long walks that almost ruined the proposal, is for another day. And we still have the shell.

Published here.

Oribi Mom: Back To Paradise and Still Captivated

“If you ever go there, be sure to leave time for a long walk.”

August 3, 2023

It’s been three years of this COVID stuff, with two sons arriving amid the chaos. With all that’s happened, we’ve also had to postpone a holiday we’d planned for July 2020.

Instead of COVID lasting a few weeks, it was still around the next year, so we didn’t go in 2021 either. Then, Boy Number Three made an entry in 2022. And now, here we are, with a one-year-old, his two brothers, and finally a three-year-old booking we have been able to actually use.

A Special Place for Our Growing Family

The place is a very special one for us as a family. It’s where we met 22 years ago as starry-eyed teenagers. It’s also where he proposed to me six years after that, when I was finally old enough to get married. So when we go, there’s always some history to it.

But it’s truly a gem of a beach destination on the North Coast. It’s the type that is beautiful just the way it is. It doesn’t need amenities to cover up litter or dirty sand or cloudy water. It has pristine soft white dunes, crystal clear water, and kilometres of space with not a soul in sight. Perfect.

Beautiful Beach Hours Above and Under the Water

The snorkellers in our little group saw rays, crayfish, lionfish, and all sorts of other interesting things in the water. The beachgoers admired the performing whales constantly passing by. And I found five turtle nests, marked by the dried eggs fanning out from the exit point on the dune. Super exciting.

In twenty years, not much has changed there except the popping up of a very exclusive lodge right below the campsite. The camp has also erected three little cabins with canvas walls, giving us the option to have our own kitchen and shower. It’s glamping compared to the outright campsites, but just as immersive in nature.

I like the cabins with small children, but we let the bigger boys camp for two nights just to have the memories. The kids also hopped around from campsite to campsite, visiting their cousins and friends who came with us for laughs, toasted marshmallows, and lots of sand castles. They even found some of the endemic bird species in the area, saw giraffes right on the main road, and watched the sunsets over Lake Sibaya. They heard the bushbabies and elusive Green Malkohas too.

Hopefully, they’ll always remember it as the best beach ever. That’s how we think of it. If you ever go there, be sure to leave time for a long walk. You might just find one if the giant cowries my love used to propose to me all those years ago. Best ringholder ever.

Published here.

The Brinze Kylene Expedition

May 2016

An amazing end to life on some Philippine islands, our Brinze Kylene expedition took us from San Miguel, Linapacan and ended at Sibaltan on the Palawan mainland.  Read about how we came to meet them here.

The Hosts

Our hosts Benji and Maileen were entertaining and hospitable, looking after us throughout our stay in Linapacan, as well as on the island hopping tour.  Their service was phenomenal and so much fun. Their crew, Midel and Guerrero, seemed to have limitless energy and kept the boat running smoothly through the whole trip.  They cooked for us, put up and took down our tent, found us the most exquisite coral reefs along the way and entertained us each night around an impressively large bonfire.

The Boat

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Since we spent most of our time on the boat, it serves that it was rather comfortable and well-equipped for such a simple carrier.  Described as a catamaran-style with balancing beams on each side, it had benches, a small cabin, a tarpaulin covering, a ladder to get out of the ocean and a small boxed-in toilet and wash area.  Downright luxurious in terms of the local fishing boats!

The Food

Every day in the Philippines is another chance for fish and rice.  Different fish, mind you, but fish all the same and rice to fill in the gaps.  We loved the fresh seafood and feasted on lapulapu, barracuda, squid, white fish and tuna – all barbecued over a fire and served with a decent portion of sticky white rice.  Every now and again we ate the precious commodities called vegetables (cabbage, carrots, tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers) and this was a real treat for the locals and for us as availability is scarce.

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The three kilogram barracuda we bought from another fisherman.
Fish
Lapu Lapu fresh from the ocean.
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A peacock mantis shrimp that we caught and ate!

And Most Importantly, The Islands

The archipelego of 54 islands is hard to describe because each one is slightly different to the next, sparkly, beautiful, rugged and unspoiled by industrialisation or development.  We lost count of exactly how many islands we visited in the end, but managed to go at least 15 islands on during the 4-day trip.

Linapacan is said to have some of “the clearest water in the world” – we believe it! Check it out.

Here was the itinerary:

  • Day 1: Leaving from San Miguel, to Dimancal (check out Karel’s tent resort here),  Bolina, Manligad, Asis and Cagdanao (first island camp spot)
    • The island across the bay, Balenben, had island huts available for rent at 300 Pesos in a fantastic reef area.
  • Day 2: Manlihan, Cala-cala (spelt Lacalaca) and Takling (second island camp spot)
  • Day 3: Calibangbangan and Magransing (third island camp spot – the most beautiful place we have ever seen!)
  • Day 4: Pical, Mausunon and ending at Sibaltan (mainland Palawan)

Each had coral reefs right off its shores and were almost guaranteed to be completely deserted.  Besides, don’t these pictures (from a humble camera phone) make you want to go there right now?  Call Maileen and Benji for an adventure on the Brinze Kylene!

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Philippine Shell

Linapacan is well worth your time – wow!  What do you think about Palawan?

 

Midmar Dam

14 February 2015

This Valentine’s weekend we stayed at Midmar Dam with our siblings and a new addition, our 6-month-old niece.  It was the week after the world-famous open water race – the Midmar Mile (which R has completed 10 times!). We invited friends and family to join us so that we could catch up with everyone while we were in KZN.

As usual, Midmar did not disappoint to wow us with its February thunderstorms and high winds, but it was worth it for the clear, glassy water in the early mornings. It was an awesome weekend of quality time with the family around the braai, laughing, making memories, enjoying the fruits of South Africa (Amarula – yum!) and remembering why we love our crazy siblings so much!

It was a happy Valentine’s day indeed!

TIP: If you will be travelling around Kwa-Zulu Natal quite a lot in a period of a year, then it is well worth it to get yourself (or your family) a Rhino Card. It gives you discounts on bookings (if you have the card before you make the booking) and on entrance fees and daily levies at the reserves and environmental sites.  We bought one and it paid for itself in just the month we were in South Africa – what a bargain!

TIPEzemvelo gave us a few grey hairs as we arrived because they didn’t have our booking confirmed, but after much discussion (calm?) and compromise, they accommodated our party of ten people and a baby with gracious hospitality in the awesome chalets – book here.

[Lesson learnt: When you book and pay online, it is not enough to have the pro-forma invoice and receipt number. Phone ahead and make sure that you receive the actual booking confirmation sheet along with other documentation to support your booking and avoid disappointment.]

Moalboal Reef

30 July 2014

Moalboal is one of the best dive spots in Cebu and arguably in the Philippines itself.  H not being a diver, we did a snorkel tour instead and were amazed at the breathtaking underwater world we discovered here.

There are reefs that run from beyond White Beach all the way around the Moalboal ‘islet’.  We snorkelled as Pescador island, near Talisay and in the fish sanctuary beyond Kasai Point. We saw sea kraits (large ones!), psychedelic schools of purple, orange, blue, yellow and green fish, stone fish, puffer fish, sea needles and also a whole lot of Green Turtles in various sizes, including one that was large enough for our boatman to sleep on!

We did an early snorkel tour 8am – 1pm to try and avoid the sun, wind and rain. It was a fantastic underwater experience with so much vibrant colour and life.  The coral in the Talisay reef was stunning and we couldn’t believe how many interesting little sea creatures we saw.

Our boat skipper was very helpful and made sure that we were in an easy position to enjoy the snorkelling without having to fight strong currents.  We tried to discourage him from touching the turtles (it seems some tourists enjoy when the turtles are brought to them to touch and take photographs) and eventually he realised that we frowned on him disturbing the creatures and left us to enjoy them in their natural environment.

Overall, a fantastic snorkelling day!

Moalboal Reef
Moalboal Reef

Jeju-do Roadtrip – Part 3

27 July 2014

Jeju Island, South Korea

Geumneung Beach
Geumneung Beach

Our last full day we headed up towards the north western corner of the island, hoping to catch a bit of sun and find a place to settle down for the last evening on Jeju island.

Circumnavigating Jeju, you can catch a glimpse of Hallasan (the prominent volcano mountain in the centre of the island) when the clouds aren’t covering it like a fluffy white beanie.

 

Geumneung Beach

Our first stop for the day was at Geumneung Beach, the quieter, neighbouring beach to Jeju’s most famous one – Hyeopjae Beach.

We found a spot of sand (between the ‘for hire’ umbrellas) and enjoyed the hike across the bay to get to the water deep enough for swimming.  As with most beaches in Korea, it wasn’t more than chest deep and you have to just pretend to be really swiming.

Windhill Hotel and Resort, Aewol.
Windhill Hotel and Resort, Aewol.

After a couple of hours, we washed off and headed up towards Aewol where we had seen a hotel online that looked like a winner.

 

Windhill Hotel and Resort

Windhill Hotel&Resort turned out to be quite difficult to find (through winding little alleys and one car wide farm roads our GPS directed us, when it would have been so much easier to come in from the other side on the coastal road through Aewol) @_@

It was a nice little hotel though and we had a comfortable stay in a clean, airconditioned room.

Cafe Uncle Tony’s

We found a small restaurant down the road, Uncle Tony’s Cafe, where we had the most delicious fish and chips we’ve found in Korea. Thank you, Britain.

Cafe Uncle Tony's, Aewol
Cafe Uncle Tony’s, Aewol

We enjoyed it so much we came back again the next day for brunch. And had fish and chips again! With vinegar! This place has a great vibe and mouth-wateringly good food.

Back to Jeju City

The last day we headed back in to Jeju City to get ready to board the ferry again.

With about an hour and a half extra, we decided to do at least one cultural activity and settled on an interesting visit to the Natural History and Folklore museum.

Heading back down to the dock was bittersweet, but Jeju is a truly beautiful place and it’s easy to see why it is held so dear in the hearts of the Korean people.

 

Memories

Favourite memories for the trip included hallabong, beaches, local hospitality and the mysterious volcanic rocks that line the turquoise bays. Goodbye, Jeju Grandfathers, and keep watch until next time.

Mount Hallasan hiding in the clouds
Mount Hallasan hiding in the clouds

Mabul Island

08 February 2014

Day trip snorkelling tour to Mabul Island with Scuba Junkie. The most inhabited of all the surrounding islands, Mabul gives off an energetic vibe and it was clear to us that all tourists and locals here were passionate about the ocean and its mysteries, as well as protecting their environmental treasure trove.

Mabul Island

We snorkelled in three different spots for the day and ate lunch at the Scuba Junkie cafeteria (buffet style) at the beach resort. There were no swimming beaches on Mabul but there is a small white beach where you can suntan or rest in the shade of a few umbrellas.  The resort itself looked very nice – small wooden bungalows and pretty gardens.  Swimming is not advised as there as too many sea urchins, but you can snorkel with the dive operators from off the boats, a little further out.

The rest of the island contains other resorts, dive operators, local houses and some home stays – this is another option for staying on Mabul cheaply. It is advised to check out the home-stays in person before deciding and/or paying for your accommodation.  We were warned repeatedly that home stays are strictly “very basic” accommodation (bamboo huts/shared bathrooms/sleeping on floor) etc.

Best sightings for the day:

Hawksbill turtle, Blue spotted ray, a school of very large Trumpet fish, a group of Puffers, very large Green turtles (at least 20 of them for the day) and so much more!

Snorkelling spots:

We snorkelled along the drop off and also in the artificial coral garden. Lobster Wall and Panglima Reef were wonderful, so many turtles and many other interesting fish.  Artificial Reef was completely boring and the visibility was poor.

Transport tips:

If you are staying on Mabul, but not diving/snorkelling through Scuba Junkie, you can still use their boat as a shuttle between Semporna and Mabul.  It was only about MYR 50 and they do regular trips.  You can take your luggage with you on the boat to Mabul (and back again).

See more about Scuba Junkie here.

 

Scuba Junkie

5 February 2014

If you ask anyone in Sabah which dive operator they would recommend in the town of Semporna, Scuba Junkie is usually the first name on the tip of their tongues.  Semporna is the gateway to the underwater beauty of Borneo and its beautiful islands – among them the world-famous Sipidan island, said to be one of the world’s top diving sites!

Although there are a wide range of other dive operators in Semporna, we only had a few days here and did not want to waste precious hours looking at other options.  We went straight to Scuba Junkie when we arrived in Semporna and set up our next few days of snorkelling tours.

Upon arrival, we hadn’t done much research about which islands we wanted to see, but Kay at Scuba Junkie patiently took us through the options, cost and details of the trips so that we could decide on the best course of action.  Scuba Junkie

We ended up choosing to do three day trips – to Mataking, Sibuan and then Mabul.  Not being divers, we obviously couldn’t get in to Sipidan itself because this is a prime diving spot (only) and generally requires special permits, applied for ahead of your trip.  The other islands, however, are more than enough to provide breath-taking underwater scenes and a vibrant mix of colours in the reefs that are teeming with beautiful and odd ocean creatures.

The full day snorkelling trip cost MYR120 (as at February 2014) and included tea, lunch, transport, environmental fee, wetsuit, snorkel, fins and your dive master. Snorkellers go on the boat with the divers and snorkel in the same spots as the dive group.

After three days of AMAZING snorkelling, turtles, rays, acute sunburn, happy memories and so much more, we definitely recommend Scuba Junkie if you only have a couple of days in Semporna.  Our favourite island trip was to Mataking (a ‘northern’ island) as this was the most beautiful underwater scene of the three.  Mabul Island was also wonderful for seeing many large turtles, including the rare hawkbills!

You can find out more about Scuba Junkie online on their Facebook Page, TripAdvisor or the website.

See more on these snorkel day trips to Mabul IslandMataking Island and Sibuan Island.

Semporna

04 February 2014

Semporna is a very small city on the south eastern border of Sabah, Malaysia Borneo.  It is home to a wide range of cultural groups including Filipinos, Indonesians and Chinese Malaysians.  It relies on palm oil and tourism to sustain its economy.  It is best known for its association with some of the world’s most beautiful diving and snorkelling islands that lie just off the coastline.  Check out Travelinds posts on the gorgeous northern islands off Semporna’s coast – Sibuan, Mabul, Mataking and Timba-Timba.

First impression:

Upon arriving at this town via express bus, we were surprised to find a dirty, poorly maintained town with litter, water leaks and sorely evident poverty.  The overall vibe here was so different to that of other charming cities we had visited in Sabah and our sixth senses seemed to kick in to high alert.

Tourist attractions:

The only reason to visit Semporna is to use the town as a stepping stone across to the vast underwater beauty of its stunning coastline and surrounding islands.  Scuba Junkie are the dive operators of choice in Semporna.  The islands also boast fantastic white sandy beaches that rival the Tip of Borneo.

Getting here:

We took the Dyana Express Bus (from Sandakan MYR 40, about 6 hours, airconditioned, fairly comfortable).  The Dyana express bus terminal is only a ten minute walk down to the waterfront and boat jetty so the town is pretty small.  You could also take a taxi or intercity bus from Tawau (where the domestic airport is located), or an express bus from Kota Kinabalu.

Accomodation tips:

We stayed at City Inn (right next to the Dyana bus terminal, ten minutes walk from the jetty) for only MYR60 per night. It was clean, quiet, more reasonably priced than backpackers and comfortable. Trip Advisor reviews seemed a bit harsh for the value for money of this hotel.

Staying in Semporna and doing the dives/snorkel trips from there is highly recommended because it generally works out a lot cheaper than staying on Mabul Island.  There are also quite a few restaurant choices on the waterfront (unlike on Mabul Island) so this helps keep the budget in line.

If you are diving at Sipidan, however, you have to stay on Mabul Island or at Kapalai resort (this is usually arranged a little while beforehand though as things get booked up quite quickly).

The advice from a local dive instructor was that it was not really worth the money to stay on Mabul Island (no swimming beach, few restaurants, pricey accomodation) unless you were really into diving at a few of the exclusive spots.  For regular snorkellers/divers, like ourselves, it worked out better to stay in Semporna and take trips out to the islands every day.

Bus booking tip
If you are too tired or lazy to walk up to the Dyana bus terminal and book your tickets, there was a waitress at the Scuba Junkie restaurant who also does bookings for the bus from there.  She phones, books your seats, takes your cash and issues your official ticket. Helpful when it is the end of a long day of sunburn or passed office hours.

Caribbean Bay

25 September 2013

On Saturday we decided to head to Caribbean Bay, the waterpark side of the Everland resort we visited in July.  It was the Chuseok weekend and we expected it to be very busy, however, we were pleasantly surprised to find that we did not have to queue for hours or fight our way too much through crowds during the day.  It wasn’t busy by Korean standards anyway.

There are 5 sections of the park but 3 of the sections (with the big rides) are only open for one month of the year (in July, for the summer holidays).  The other two sections were less exciting but nevertheless, a lot of fun.  We were able to have a fun-filled day at a discounted rate, thanks to the Chuseok discount for foreigners that happened to coincide with our trip.

When we arrived, we went on the indoor tube and body slides with almost nobody waiting in the queues.  Later in the day, this section had filled up so much that we had to wait up to 45 minutes to take a ride!

The riverway (a lazy river where we you jump on a tube and float around the course) was really good.  Apparently, it’s the longest lazy river in the world.  We spent a lot of our day lazing on the long riverway and again and marvelling at how the Koreans stuck in their “ppali ppali” (hurry hurry) mentality, who would rather run and push their tubes, and anyone else in their way, to get around the course faster.  It’s called a “lazy” river for a reason people!

The riverway connects to most attractions in the park.  It’s great to jump on a tube (or run pushing your tube if you wish), ride for a little way and then jump off again at the next place.  You can go to almost every ride this way without walking anywhere.  Always a bonus.

The other attractions open were the wave pool, the bade pool and the rest and relaxation area with a few jacuzzis and hot pools.  The Miracle spa is another stop along the riverway and consists of three jacuzzis and a foot spa.  The foot spa was great.  Fill it up with hot water from the tap, soak for 10 minutes, pull the plug, fill up with cold water, soak and then repeat.  The contrasting temperatures help to promote blood flow and also, apparently, healthy organs.  It was very relaxing, even if not quite a miracle.

It was a great day enjoying the last of the summer sun!

If you have a chance, check out the Siam Cafe and Restaurant on your way home. It’s on the road towards the Maseong exit out of Everland, past the GS 25. They have great Thai food.

Caribbean Bay Indoor Pool
Caribbean Bay Indoor Pool
Caribbean Bay Wave Pool
Caribbean Bay Wave Pool
Caribbean Bay slide
Caribbean Bay slide

Resom Resort Spa Castle

24 September 2013

This Chuseok, we had an invitation to join some Korean friends at the Resom Resort Spa Castle in Deoksan.  We arrived on the first day of Chuseok and were surprised by the buzzing atmosphere of the resort as guests streamed in to enjoy the long weekend.

We stayed 2 nights in a small condominium.  Ironically, we slept in the Korean style room (Korean mattress on the floor) and the Koreans slept in the Western style room (with a double bed).  There are two beautiful parks on the grounds where you can picnic or walk.  There was also a buffet breakfast to enjoy and of course, the main attraction of the hotel, the spa.

Unaware of the facilities, we had assumed that going to a ‘spa’ meant that we would find a salon style spa with massage, facial therapy, mud baths, jacuzzis and skin treatments.  We could not have been more wrong! As it turns out, Korean ‘spas’ are actually more like waterparks!

At this one, there was an indoor public bath area (women and men seperate), an indoor pool area and an outdoor waterpark area with slides and pools.  You had to pay for a day pass to enter the ‘sauna’ (indoor public bath area) or, a full day pass for all the facilities.  It was also compulsory to hire life jackets if you wanted to use any of the slides (as most Koreans cannot swim) and you also had to wear a cap (swimming or baseball cap are both acceptable)!

Of course, we had to take advantage of staying at a waterpark and so we spent a full day enjoying all that it had to offer.

The indoor public bath area was like a normal jimjilbang (public bath house) that can be found anywhere in Korea.  It was however, a little fancier than the average jimjilbang found in the cities.  Women and men are completely seperated and there are towels and powder room amenities provided free of charge in this area.  Also, everybody is naked.  Completely naked, together, in full view of everyone else.  The towels are more like hand towels and barely cover one cheek let alone a body.  In this area there are saunas, pools of varying temperatures, showers, scrub rooms, hot rock decks and massage rooms.  The powder rooms have moisturisers, hair gel, hair dryers and other consumables, which can be used free of charge.  Secretly, I actually enjoy the jimjilbang, once I’ve forgotten about everyone staring (openly) at the foreigner who looks quite different from the skinny Koreans.

Once you leave the jimjilbang, you need to be fully clothed again to enter the indoor and outdoor swimming areas.  The indoor pools were a combination of jacuzzis, swimming pools, hot and cold paddle pools and also a huge “bade pool”.  The Bade pool is so relaxing!  You move around the pool at your leisure and visit different areas to enjoy different types of hydrotherapy.  For example, there were sections with a neck massage spray, foot spa bubbles, back and leg spray, jacuzzi style pool, individual bubble bays and even a “therapy walk way” for relaxing walking.  All inside one pool. Amazing!

The outside pool area included a torrent river (70cm deep, still required life jackets), tube rides, body slides, speed slide and also a few different pools and jacuzzis to relax.  There were attentive life guards at every station and they got very grumpy if you didn’t wear your life jacket, or a cap.  It seems that it’s ok for a lady to walk around naked in front of every lady in the jimjilbang but when she goes outside she must have clothes on over her swimming costume – t-shirt, shorts, pants suit, whatever.  And the men also have long t-shirts and big shorts on most of the time.  A few exceptions were jaw-dropping bikinis and banana hammocks but these were either fashionistas or tourists.

We had a superb time at this resort and a good few laughs at the strange differences from what we’re used to back home.  I hope to return here one day soon.