All posts by Heather

The Linds are on a journey to find beautiful places and faces around the world and right here at home on the farm. Come and see things through our eyes for a while. Onward and upward we go!

Culture Shock South Korea

10 June 2014

As an English teacher in South Korea, my South African brain has had to deal with major culture shock the last two years; some things more mind-blowing than others:

1. Confused borrowed etiquette. Coffee is generally served in tea cups and tea served in coffee mugs.

2. All meals must be eaten in exactly 15 minutes or less. And no talking. Also, cut your food with scissors.

3. Slurping noodles is considered rude by “traditional etiquette standards”, but is widely practiced and grating “shlurp” sounds should always be expected. Same goes for chewing with your mouth open.

4. A popped “personal space bubble” – especially on public transport where you are surrounded by countless other bodies, touching arms or shoulders is really no biggie. Oh, and don’t expect an apology if someone bumps into you.

5. Konglish e.g. SF (sci-fi movie), eye-shopping (window shopping), arbeit (part time job), apart (apartment), heart-a-beat-a (nerves/fear), fry (fried egg), fat size (clothing sizes for larger-than-Korean people)… and the list goes on.

6. Feet. DO NOT expose your toes to your students or colleagues, EVER! Wear socks, even those semi-transparent nylon socks. Unless you don’t mind the looks and whispers.

7. Elevators. DO NOT speak while inside an elevator. Just don’t. Stare only at the wall, the mirror, the floor or the ceiling.  No eye-contact is allowed.

8. Driving. Drive faster than the speed limit at all times, but break hard before every speed camera (the GPS already knows the location of all the speed cameras).  Also, hoot while the traffic light is still red to make sure the cars in front of you are ready to screech out of the starting position when the light turns green. Or just ignore red lights altogether and just drive around the pole to avoid the cameras.

9. Ajummas (old women). If you are an old woman, you may walk wherever you please, including in the middle of the road. You may also push anyone out of the way, skip queues, bump violently into any people who don’t move out of your way and always stare openly at foreigners (with your mouth wide open for better effect).

And these are only the tip of the iceberg… I haven’t even mentioned the Darth-Vader-style sun visors, the very mini skirts, the perms (from toddlers to pop stars), the rice fascination, the obsession with all things “pamous” (famous) and the skin-whitening suncream.  Come for a visit, I’m sure you’ll soon discover a whole lot more South Korean charm.

Love-Hate Small Town Korea

02 June 2014

This is why I both love and hate living in a small town in South Korea:

  1. I have more chance of being hit by flying clay from a passing tractor than being hit by a car.
  2. Summer brings with it a green blanket of natural goodness, as well as the lingering smell of manure and mud.
  3. Our apartment is so small, I can clean it quite effectively by extending the broom outwards and spinning around once or twice in only three different spots.
  4. As a foreigner, I am subjected to at least three good, long, blatant, shameless, piercing stares from “friendly” locals every day.  Can you say celebrity!
  5. Birds, snakes, wild strawberries, pheasants, centipedes and ducks make my walks to and from school all the more exciting. Likewise for unplanned, unavoidable bum-sliding on the icy roads and pavements during Winter.
  6. 4-wheelers (quad bikes), electronic wheelchairs and baby tractors with trailers are all quite acceptable forms of transport on even the busiest roads in town.
  7. Walking from one end of town to the other never takes more than twenty minutes and there are sure to be at least 100 students greeting us along the way, as between us, we teach at the only elementary, middle and high school in the town.
  8. The ancient old lady collecting trash provides endless entertainment for passing pedestrians (and endless frustration for hurried motorists) as she pushes her cardboard collection trailor around town, in the middle of the road, oblivious to the traffic jams and horns blaring all around her.
  9. No matter which secret alleyway I choose to take (for exploration purposes), all ways eventually lead to the main street in town.
  10. The mandu (Korean dumpling) shop owner greets me with a friendly smile and courteous bow every single day.  Even when I don’t buy mandu from her for a couple of weeks.

Aaaaah, Korean life.

P.S. Did I mention that I have only been asked if I’m “Russian” (code for ‘lady of the night’) four times in three months. No, no I’m not Russian. Not available, sorry. This is awkward. I’m leaving now…

Tsitsikamma, Storms River Mouth – I <3 South Africa

Destination: Tsitsikamma

Eastern Cape, South Africa

Description

Tsitsikamma National Park is one of the most beautiful holiday destinations in South Africa and it is situated on the world-famous Garden Route.  TsitsikammaIts rolling green hills, sheer cliffs, wild oceans, fascinating wildlife and rugged beauty are simply breath-taking; Mother Nature at her finest.Tsitsikamma

 

Tourist Must-sees

In the National Park itself, there are camping facilities, chalets, hiking trails, picnic spots, a bird-watchers paradise, plenty of wildlife and the rugged sandy beaches that belong to the earth, not to tourists.Tsitsikamma view

There are also amazing sight-seeing opportunities in the nearby areas of Storms River Mouth and the village, Nature’s Valley, Plettenberg Bay and The Crags.

The Big Tree, The Otter Trail, Robberg Nature Reserve and Birds of Eden are some of my favourite spots in this area.

 

Attractions range from the highest bungee-jump in the world at Bloukrans to the five-day beach hike on the Otter Trail, this place offers adventure-seekers a multitude of thrilling endeavours.

 

There are also a number of acclaimed restaurants nearby.

I especially recommend De Oude Martha in Storms River Village (a short drive from the Tsitsikamma Reserve). There are also other interesting places like Canopy Tours, Monkeyland and the Elephant Sanctuary to make for a great day out with the whole family.

 

Tsitsikamma is also a perfect setting in which to relax and enjoy the sunsets, or do some serious whale-watching and stroll along the green pathways alongside the dark blue coastline.

My favourite place

My favourite place here is at the Tsitsikamma National Park at the Storms River Mouth Rest Camp. There are cute wooden cabins here, perfect for a romantic getaway, where in fact we enjoyed a very romantic spring break in October 2011.

Otter TrailMemory Bank:

We walked a little way along the Otter Trail to reach the famous waterfall pool, seeing antelope, cormorants, whales, dolphins, seagulls, baboons and kingfishers along the way. Then followed a lunchtime picnic followed by a cool swim in the tannin-coloured waters below the waterfall before heading back along the trail. A little way before the camp, we found a secret rock pool below the path where we enjoyed a dip in the refreshing waters; dodging the bunch of sea urchins on one end of the pool.  Such an amazing day!

Fun facts:

  • Whale-watching Season: June to November
  • Climate:                                 Temperate Coastal Climate – The wettest months are May and October, and the driest are June and July.

Helpful Resources:

Booking website: Tsitsikamma National Park (SANPARKS)

Recommended Tour Agent: Imvelaphi Safaris (her name is Jeannette and she is a vibrant, knowledgeable and professional entrepreneur who will provide you with an awesome tour package).

Check out more posts about South Africa here >> *I <3 South Africa*

 

Spring

Edenland

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts. There is something infinitely healing in the repeated refrains of nature – the assurance that dawn comes after night, and spring after winter.”                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Rachel CarsonSilent Spring

Jainnes Apin – Celebrity Chef

15 February 2014

On a trip to the Tip of Borneo (Simpang Mengayau) in Sabah, we were privileged to meet Chef Jainnes Apin.  Fellow travellers at our lodge recommended the restaurant to us not knowing the name of the restaurant or the chef, but said the cuisine was excellent and worth the short walk up the hill.

The restaurant is called Merrimas and is part of the Merrimas Villas complex at Simpang Mengayau (Tip of Borneo).  The menu is varied and delicious and, in fact, we returned a few nights in a row to sample a few more scrumptious dishes from their menu.  The pan-fried fish (red snapper) and a variety of the ‘set dishes’ were top quality Rungus cuisine and reasonably priced compared to the few other restaurants along the Tip of Borneo.  The quality and presentation of the food was head-and-shoulders above any other restaurant in this area.  Since we enjoyed our meals, we asked to meet the chef and that is when we were introduced to the talented and humble celebrity chef, Jainnes Apin.

He introduced himself as Chef Apin, “but you can call me Jainnes.”  He is a charming man with a passion for preserving and perfecting the Rungus cuisine in particular; it’s evident that his cultural Rungus heritage was of utmost importance to him. It was lovely to be able to enjoy his cooking on the Tip of Borneo, get a taste of the Rungus cuisine and culture, and to hear some of his interesting stories.  One of his family members was sitting at a table doing some of the intricate beadwork for which the Rungus of Borneo are so famous.

Chef Apin, keep up the great work!

Tip of Borneo Accomodation

14 February 2014

After a week at the Tip of Borneo, the following accomodation in the area seemed worth a look. Since not all seemed to be available for online booking, Travelinds thought they’d mention a few options to those looking to spend a couple nights in this beautiful place:

1. Tommy’s Place (mid-range, email booking)
  • We stayed here for the 5 days and loved the vibe of this chilled out lodge.  The food was decent (breakfasts were delicious!), it’s right opposite the beach, ten minutes walk from the Tip of Borneo monument and lookout, managed efficiently and generally clean.

    Tommy's Place
    Tommy’s Place
2. BorneoTip Lodge (mid range, email booking)
  • Right next door to Tommy’s Place, wooden bungalows and a lovely pool seems to be in the making (a long way from finished though).  Popular with bikers going up to the Tip for the weekend. Also right across from the beach and ten minutes walk to the Tip of Borneo.
3. Merrimas Villas (mid to high price, online booking available)
  • Beautiful villas here and it is right on the tip. five minutes walk down to the beach. Great restaurant (see blog on Chef Jainnes Apin) and friendly staff.
4. TipofBorneo Villas/bungalows (mid to high price, phone/email booking)
  • The last lodge before the tip itself. Seemed like simple but comfortable bungalows (different sizes available) but mid to high prices. Cheapest beer at this restaurant. Five minutes walk from the beach.
5. Tampat Do Aman (Howard’s) (mid range, online)
  • This seems to be the most well-known (well marketed) lodge in the area with its rungus-style longhouse and rustic living experience. The information is available on their information website and you can read more in the menu of Tip Top restaurant (Howard’s) while you are there. http://tampatdoaman.com/

This area is largely untouched with hardly any urban development noticeable. It provides a great base to relax, enjoy the beach, swim, surf, explore beautiful local beaches (with absolutely no people to crowd out the long white stretches) and just enjoy a bit of an authentic Sabah experience.

It is so worth the trip!

Tip of Borneo beach
Tip of Borneo beach

Tip of Borneo Restaurants

13 February 2014

 

After spending a week at the Tip of Borneo (Simpang Mengayau), here is Travelinds’ take on the few restaurants in the area:

Ranked at number 1:

Merrimas Villas Restaurant – try the fish dishes (all of them) and enjoy the reasonably priced “set menu” especially the “fish ginger.”  Read Travelinds’ piece on Chef Jainnes Apin – the very talented chef at Merrimas whose quality food was most certainly the best in the area.

Contending for overall second place:

Tip Top (Howard’s) against Tommy’s Place restaurant.  Both serve a very similar menu, both are priced about the same. Nothing unique about the dishes, presentation or prices but it did the trick.

Last place:

Borneo tip lodge restaurant: A menu similar to Tip top and Tommy’s, but so many mosquitoes, bland food and very, very slow service.  Pricing the same as Tommy’s and Tip Top.

Breakfast spot:

Tommy’s Place offered a great breakfast menu (highly negotiable and can be suited to your preferences). We had oats with hot soya milk, fresh fruit, toast with jam, coffee. There were also eggs available (omelettes etc). A much better variety (price and nutrition) than most other places we stayed at in Sabah.

Cheapest beer:

Although we didn’t eat here, we did find that the restaurant that is the closest to the Tip itself (I think it is called Tip of Borneo resort/villas resto) had the cheapest beer out of all the restaurants (RM 5). We went here for the gorgeous sunsets and we enjoyed a beer as the sun went down on Simpang Mengayau.  It is on the other side of Merrimas Villas, closest to the Tip itself.  Although, if you pick up a bag of trash and do your part in cleaning up the Tip’s long white beach, you can get a free beer from Tip Top Restaurant – so it’s up to you!

In reality, the food is NOT the important part of a holiday to this part of Sabah.  It’s a place of such beauty that it is the perfect place to just relax and unwind! But Bon Appetit!

Tip of Borneo

12 February 2014

 

Simpang Mengayau, the Tip of Borneo, is often described as the most beautiful place in Borneo itself.  On the map, it is the tip of the ‘left-ear’ of the Sabah ‘dog’ and is the northern-most point of Borneo itself.

Tip of Borneo

What is there to do?

This is the perfect beach destination.  You can do nothing but relax. Read, sleep, sunbathe, walk along the 2km beach, explore on your rented motorcyle, eat local food, read some more, sleep some more and swim in the warm South China Sea.

Getting there

The Tip of Borneo is about 3 hours drive from Kota Kinabalu (Sabah’s capital city).   There are a few different ways to get there but after chatting to a few tourists along the way, each method is a bit of trial and error and doesn’t always work out exactly as described in the brochures.Tip of Borneo

By Car – hiring a car from Kota Kinabalu and driving up is possible. We met someone who did this (at RM90 per day) but ended up stranded that night as the car died and nobody was able to assist until the following morning. It is only a three hour drive, scenic, but with potholes and roadblocks along the way.

By Bus – there is a ‘big’ local bus once a day (sometimes) which can take anywhere between 3 to 6 hours. It costs about RM 30.  You take a bus from near the ‘Shangri-La Motel Bus Stop’ (it is behind the city hall, it is NOT the express bus stop on the beach-side of the city hall).

By Taxi – a taxi from the airport (and back) would be anywhere between RM 250 to RM 350 depending on your negotiation skills. For four people wanting to only do a day trip, this might be worth the cost to have a personal driver.

Tip of BorneoBy Shared Taxi – This is the option that we used and it went very smoothly both ways. From Kota Kinabalu, go to the same place as the bus stop (above) and find a shared taxi (5-7 people). It costs RM30 each and you have to wait for the taxi to fill up before it will leave. We waited no more than an hour for both trips to and from Tip of Borneo.  Beware of unlicensed taxis.

In Kudat, you go to the centre of town, there is a waiting place there with shared taxis which take longer to fill up than in Kota Kinabalu (you need to get transport from Tip of Borneo in to Kudat town to catch this taxi – we paid RM20 each for our lodge to drop us there).Tip of Borneo


By Plane
– this seemed like the quickest option for some travellers that we met. But you still need to take a taxi/hotel shuttle between the Tip and the airport in Kudat. Flights could be found cheaply and the small plane experience is apparently very scenic and gives impressive views of the mountain and the northern bays.

You can also apparently fly from other cities (Sandakan, Tawau etc) to Kudat, so this is definitely worth a look if you are coming from the south of Sabah and don’t want to take the inevitable route in and out of to Kota Kinabalu.

Check out some places to stay here and restaurants in the area here.

Tip: Make this a stop in your itinerary – it is worth it, if only for the stunning coastline and magnificent sunsets.Tip of Borneo

Mabul Island

08 February 2014

Day trip snorkelling tour to Mabul Island with Scuba Junkie. The most inhabited of all the surrounding islands, Mabul gives off an energetic vibe and it was clear to us that all tourists and locals here were passionate about the ocean and its mysteries, as well as protecting their environmental treasure trove.

Mabul Island

We snorkelled in three different spots for the day and ate lunch at the Scuba Junkie cafeteria (buffet style) at the beach resort. There were no swimming beaches on Mabul but there is a small white beach where you can suntan or rest in the shade of a few umbrellas.  The resort itself looked very nice – small wooden bungalows and pretty gardens.  Swimming is not advised as there as too many sea urchins, but you can snorkel with the dive operators from off the boats, a little further out.

The rest of the island contains other resorts, dive operators, local houses and some home stays – this is another option for staying on Mabul cheaply. It is advised to check out the home-stays in person before deciding and/or paying for your accommodation.  We were warned repeatedly that home stays are strictly “very basic” accommodation (bamboo huts/shared bathrooms/sleeping on floor) etc.

Best sightings for the day:

Hawksbill turtle, Blue spotted ray, a school of very large Trumpet fish, a group of Puffers, very large Green turtles (at least 20 of them for the day) and so much more!

Snorkelling spots:

We snorkelled along the drop off and also in the artificial coral garden. Lobster Wall and Panglima Reef were wonderful, so many turtles and many other interesting fish.  Artificial Reef was completely boring and the visibility was poor.

Transport tips:

If you are staying on Mabul, but not diving/snorkelling through Scuba Junkie, you can still use their boat as a shuttle between Semporna and Mabul.  It was only about MYR 50 and they do regular trips.  You can take your luggage with you on the boat to Mabul (and back again).

See more about Scuba Junkie here.

 

Mataking and Timba-Timba Island

07 February 2015

tumblr_inline_n40p17q3WL1rg4d7lMataking Island

Mataking Turtles
Turtles popping their heads out of the smooth turquoise water off Mataking Island.

 

The Mataking Island day trip was by far our favourite of the three days spent snorkelling off the coast of Semporna, Borneo.

With its long white beach and crystal clear turquoise water, it is just like something out of those romantic movies in tropical paradise.    Just the two of us, on a white beach, under the shade of a tree, looking out over the cobalt water lapping on the shore…
We saw a large number of fish and other sea life, including barracuda, stone fish, colourful varieties of parrot fish, turtles and weird looking tiny things.

The colours here are truly spectacular and this is definitely one of Travelinds’ best places in the world to snorkel and to swim!
We spent time on the beach after lunch while the divers rested and could see the turtles popping their heads out of the water every few minutes (to breathe).

 

 

 

 

 

Timba-Timba Island

Mataking

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the way back to Semporna, we went to the Diver’s Delight snorkelling spot off Timba-Timba island and saw so many turtles here!

It was really exciting for me as I had not had much experience in swimming with turtles, even while snorkelling in Philippines, Malaysia and Thailand!

It was a truly spectacular snorkelling day and we flaunted the sunburn to prove it!

See more about Scuba Junkie here.tumblr_inline_n40p3uXy3t1rg4d7l

 

 

 

 

 

Sibuan Island

06 February 2014

Nicknamed “Sunburn island”, Sibuan is like something out of a dreamy beach romance.  White sandy beach, cobalt clear water, reefs right off the island and a couple of palm trees dotted here and there.  The military base building is the only sign of life here and life seems to creep past at a suitably slow island pace.

The snorkelling here was fantastic, colourful coral, turtles, all kinds of colourful fish and other interesting sea creatures.  It is close enough to swim back to the beach if you get tired and the visibility was good that day.

Favourite memory:

Due to the military presence of these islands (mostly for environmental protection and immigration law enforcement) it is common to see a couple of soldiers, with big guns, lying around on hammocks or patrolling the islands checking for illegal activity. One of the Swedish tourists was in his skimpy speedo (only) and demanded a photo shoot with the soldier and his large weapon, to which the soldier of course, happily complied. They were having a whale of a time doing a photo shoot of “the soldier and the speedo” – hilarious to watch!

Weird experience:

We were on our third snorkelling spot of the day around Sibuan when we heard two loud bangs in a row.  It was enough to get us to lift our heads out of the water suddenly and look around expectantly. Apparently, this area has a problem with fisherman using dynamite for fishing purposes and unfortunately, these explosions occur pretty regularly.  This particular one was apparently about two kilometres from us, but unbelievably loud for being that distance away.  There is a system to report explosions (time,date, location) in the area so that officals can investigate and hopefully catch the offending parties.

TIP:
Take suncream with you. It sure is hot, with little to no shady spots on the island. As a result, we spent most of our downtime at Sibuan in the shade of the speedboat.

See more about Scuba Junkie here.