Tag Archives: bohol

Bohol’s Tarsiers

25 January 2014

Big round eyes, sticky little toes, ruffled brown fur and strange pointy ears was my first glimpse of the tarsier, a tiny creature that I have been dying to see since starting our travels in South East Asia. Nocturnal by nature, the tarsiers are sleepy during the day and these mostly insectivorous primates spend the daylight hours fast asleep.  At night, it is a completely different story with jumping, shrieking and feasting on whatever they can find.

The Philippine Tarsiers, like their cousins the Western Tarsiers, are the cutest, tiniest, weirdest-looking animals ever!  Tarsiers are only found in South East Asia and are critically endangered.

Bohol island in the Philippines is home to some of the only Philippine tarsiers left in the world and there are conservation efforts happening on the island to increase the dwindling numbers of this lovely little creature.  Many of those animals kept at the conservation centres have been rescued from illegal trade and can never survive again in the wild.  Others have been successfully bred through carefully guarded breeding programmes and then successfully released into their natural habitat.

Travelinds was forced to visit the Carmen Tarsier Sanctuary (in Loboc) instead of the Corella sanctuary which I’d read so much about, because the road had been severely damaged by the October 2013 earthquake and made it impossible to get to Corella from where we were staying in Panglao, Alona Beach.  It was great to finally meet these amazing little monkeys, but I felt guilty once again that captivity is no place for wild creatures.  Even though I so badly wanted to see one of these animals, I would still have preferred to see one at a far distance knowing it was free and wild!

Loboc Tarsiers

Bohol Country Tour

21 January 2014

The Bohol “Country Tour” is a standard tour offered by most travel agents (private and franchised) for exploring the inland attractions of Bohol island.  Most tour agents you speak to (willingly or not) will show you the same brochures and quote you the same starting price for this tour.

The tour we settled on was for just the two of us, going to:

  • The Blood Compact statue
  • Baclayon church
  • Loboc River Cruise for lunch
  • Chocolate Hills complex
  • Butterfly Farm
  • Tarsier Sanctuary

We travelled in an air-conditioned van and our tour guide was very professional and knowledgeable about all the attractions that we went to see.  We declined going to the zip-lining and the zoo as we wanted to spend unlimited time at the Tarsier Sanctuary, which was one of our main reasons for travelling to Bohol itself.

Blood Compact
The Blood Compact Statue – a statue dedicated to the pact made between the people of Bohol and the Spanish.
Baclayon Church
Baclayon Church – a very old, very large church which at the time (Feb 2014) had been very badly damaged by the earthquake in October 2013. It is beautiful. Stained-glass windows, large stones etc and there is a museum inside.
Loboc River Cruise
Loboc River Cruise – 450 pesos each will get you a ride on a boat and a buffet lunch, for two hours. The river is a fantastic turquoise colour and the scenery along the way is serene. We saw a couple of colourful birds like kingfishers, a monitor lizzard, a water buffalo and some small houses.
Chocolate Hills Complex
Chocolate Hills complex – the famous landmark of Carmen, Bohol. A must-see for its World Heritage status. The hills turn brown (like chocolate) in the summer because the intense heat kills the grass. They stretch as far as the eye can see, 360 degrees. The viewing platform was severely damaged due to the earthquake but a temporary one is in place.
Butterfly Farm
Butterfly Farm – this was a fun little detour into a butterfly sanctuary. The guide we were assigned to at the butterfly farm was a lively character who even magically transformed us into butterflies ourselves! The homemade ice-cream bars here are delicious!

 

Tarsier Sanctuary
Tarsier Sanctuary – the highlight of my holiday to Bohol was finally meeting the tiny Philippine tarsiers. Cute, furry and nocturnal, it was worth the effort to catch a glimpse and a few photos of these incredible creatures. We’re proud to have supported the conservation efforts for these endangered animals in some way. Read more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was a very interesting day with so much to see and admire. The earthquake damage reminded us of the devastation that this community had to endure only a few months before our holiday and it was good to see the work that has gone in to rebuilding and moving forward.

TIP: Ask your guide to stop at the Bilsar Public Market on your way to/from Chocolate Hills complex.  Look for ladies selling sayre (rice bamboo treats) in small plastic bags.  These are DELICIOUS! Our guide stops there every tour day to buy himself some of these snacks.  It is like sweet&herb rice cake wrapped in bamboo leaves (about 5 cm long).  A real local delicacy. Try it!

Read more about Bohol here.

Buy Local

This was the Loboc church before and after the earthquake.  The damage to the interior part of the island is extensive and rebuilding is slow.  Supporting the tour guides and spending money on ‘silly tourist’ things like the River Cruise and the Butterly Farm will help boost the local economy as they rebuild homes, businesses and lives affected after the earthquake of October 2013.

Bohol church beforeBohol church after

 

Bohol Tours

20 January 2014

While staying at Alona Beach (Panglao Island, Bohol), we booked a snorkel tour and a country tour with one of the local tour agents (the ones who walk around bugging you all the time).  We had priced a few and settled on one that we were happy to support.  Toto gave us a good deal for two days (one day snorkel tour, one day country tour) and agreed to all the little details that we insisted were deal-breakers (we needed snorkel equipment, guaranteed air-conditioned van, only two of us on our boat and in the van etc)

The tours were great fun and helped us to see a good deal of Bohol’s attractions that we may not have got to had we tried to wander around on our own.

The standard tour choices available all over Bohol are:

  • Country Tour:
    • Choose all or some: Zip-line, Tarsiers, Chocolate hills, Butterfly farm, Lunch River Cruise Loboc, Baclayon church, Blood Compact statue, Zoo and a few other little stops.

Toto was true to his word (but only because we insisted that he sort things out before we got on the boat – like there was no snorkel equipment?) and overall, we had a very enjoyable two days. The driver on our country tour was Toto’s cousin/friend and he was a wonderful tour guide and great conversationalist.  He was so professional and that made all the difference to us getting the most out of the day.

The total cost for both days (for two people, excluding lunches) was 2,000 pesos (about $45 US) but don’t let that stop you from bargaining with the vendor.  You will also have to pay extras for all the entrance fees during the country tour and buy lunches (ask about the cost of the attractions before you decide on which ones you would like to do).  To be honest, the “extras” didn’t come to that much either.

If you only have a couple days in Bohol, I highly recommend that you do these two tours, especially if seeing the main attractions on the island is one of your priorities.

Tawala Beach

19 January 2014

Tawala beach is one of the quieter beaches on Panglao Island, Bohol.  It is right next to the main beach, Alona, which is where the majority of tourists gather to enjoy the long white beach, restaurants, tour departure points and a large variety of accommodation. We chose to stay at a quieter location for our first week in Bohol, as we prefer peace and quiet to the buzz of the central tourist spots.

Tawala BeachThe lodge we booked was called Nova Beach Resort (Nova Beach Club) and it is situated on Tawala beach.  As H was sick with flu for a few days, it was the perfect place to relax, swim, read and sleep. There are hammocks overlooking the ocean, a deserted sandy beach, plenty of comfortable couch space with a view and air-conditioned rooms for muggy nights.  We slept, ate and relaxed here (and recovered from flu) and by the end of the week were feeling more than ready to take on our forthcoming five week travelling vacation.

We stayed in the basic rooms at the back of the lodge (small room, two single beds, simple furnishing, en-suite bathroom, air-conditioning) and were very comfortable.  There are also deluxe rooms and villas available.  It would be a great place for honeymooners to enjoy some time to themselves.

There are dive tours available (just ask at the front desk) and we read reviews that when there are large groups of divers or Japanese tourists (the owner is Japanese), it can sometimes get a bit rowdy at the resort.  Our own experience, however, was of a tranquil atmosphere and we had plenty of time and space to ourselves for the week.

tumblr_inline_n4l3skCJBa1rg4d7lIf you want a night out or a change of scenery, you can get to Alona beach by tuk-tuk, motorbike, the shuttle van or even walking (if you’re fit and don’t mind sweating A LOT). These charged anywhere between 40 pesos and 300 pesos depending on your bargaining skills. When we changed hotels at the end of the week, we took our bags (we usually only travel with hand luggage) and each hopped on to the back of a motorbike – it was cheaper, and faster than taking the trike.

There is no entertainment on this stretch of beach so don’t expect any restaurants, tours or boats.  The advantage is that it is also free of tourists, pesky tour agents, vendors and noisy speedboats.  It is a beautiful big bay where you can swim and snorkel, before retreating into the shade of one of the low hanging trees on the beach.  Then take an afternoon nap on one of the hammocks or couches with a view before tucking in to a scrumptious dinner in the airy dining room.  The swimming pool area also has a few sun-loungers and private massage booths too.

We hope to return to Nova Beach Resort some day soon! It felt like our own stretch of private beach on a paradise island.

Check out reviews on TripAdvisor and make a booking on Agoda.com

 

Alona Beach

18 January 2014

Alona Beach is a lively stretch of white sand located on Panglao Island, Bohol. There are a large variety of hotels, lodges and dive centres, restaurants, tours and vendors available in this area.  It is a central tourist point for Bohol visitors and as such, there are a great number of tour agents looking for give you the deal of a lifetime.

Roberto's Resort
Roberto’s Resort

We spent one week here (after first exploring a quieter beach, Tawala) and enjoyed ourselves immensely.  The busy beach lane matched the boat traffic in the bay, but there was always a decent spot to sunbathe and to swim. There are quite a few nice restaurants too, which meant that we could enjoy a bit of variety in our chosen meals.

Not having booked any hotels, we went to search for somewhere for one night before deciding on a place for the rest of the week.  We booked into a very cute little roadside lodge called Roberto’s Resort (a good kilometer’s walk from the beach), and the next day then moved into Playa Blanca (Birdwatcher’s) Hotel, which was right on the beach.

Roberto’s was a great find with charming staff and large clean rooms, although it was a little too far from the beach for us with R having a bad ankle.

Alona Beach Sunrise
Sunrise, right outside our room at Playa Blanca Birdwatcher’s Hotel

Had we been in perfect health, we may have stayed at Roberto’s for the whole week and enjoyed a walk down to the beach everyday.

 

Playa Blanca (Birdwatcher’s Hotel) gave us a good rate for five nights and it was right on the beach.  It is just a couple of rooms and villas located a few metres off the White Beach and owned by the same Australians that run the pub-restaurant next door to the lodge.  We took the room in the building right behind the bar (Room 2?) and were a little concerned that it might be too noisy at night.  We found, however, that the loud music from the bar carries out to sea rather than finding its way to the back of the bar and so the building insulates the sounds rather well.

Our recommended restaurants for the week were: Aquatica, Trudi’s and Alona Pizza/Burger.  Trudi’s breakfasts were especially delicious.  There are so many other restaurants too that we didn’t have time to try (especially the seafood speciality ones).

Getting here: 

  • After travelling from Cebu to Bohol, take a taxi or trike from the Tagbiliran Harbour.
  • Our trike ride from the Tagbiliran Harbour cost 300 pesos and took approximately 45 minutes to Alona, over an hour to Nova Beach Club.
  • To and from Tawala Beach (where Nova Beach Club is located), a motorbike costs about 50 pesos (1 passenger)

Read more about Snorkel Tour, Country Tour, Tarsiers and Tawala Beach.

Breakfast
Our daily breakfasts at Trudi’s were a definite highlight at Alona beach.

 

Turtle Point and Virgin Island

22 January 2014

Balicasag Island

Part of our snorkel tour included a couple of hours at Balicasag Island (off the coast of Bohol).  We started out with snorkelling and then headed on to the deserted stretch of beach in front of the island lodge to wile away a few hours of sunshine.

Balicasag Island has a tiny local population most of whom thrive off the tourism to the island by selling trinkets and running the small local food stalls where tourists can grab a bite to eat.  There is also a lodge on the island which looked quite peaceful. It is a very small island and you could walk around it in under an hour. There are shallow reefs right off the beach which means you have to take a boat out to the drop-off to be able to snorkel.

This is, of course, another money grabbing scheme (not only to ‘protect the reefs’) because you need to pay a local boy to take you out to the spot on his tiny boat.  He supervises you and then returns you to the shore where you can go back to your original speedboat.  We had to pay the boatman to take us out to turtle point (he rows) in this TINY two man boat (three of us) against a very strong current. Interesting, and fun.  And we were happy to be supporting his monumental efforts at transporting at least 160kgs of us to the Turtle Point.  It didn’t look that far, but it took a long time to row out there.

The snorkelling choices here were one of three places (we could do more than one if we paid an additional fee per snorkel spot). We chose to go to “Turtle Point” as it seemed the least likely spot to be filled with boatloads of tourists. As we had hoped, we were the only ones snorkelling there, probably due to the very strong currents that abound off that particular point.  H held on to the boat for a while to try and stay in one place longer to admire the underwater beauty and R managed to read the currents a little better.

The main thing is that we actually swam with turtles, H for the first time, and we saw at least 15 turtles altogether.  It was super exciting! Turtles are really the most graceful creatures and despite looking like slow-pokes, it was impossible to keep up with them. It was an amazing experience!

Virgin Island

Virgin Island

The next stop on the island hopping tour was Virgin Island (it’s nickname only) and this was truly one of the most beautiful islands I have ever seen.  White sand and the bluest water colour of any bay I’ve seen around the world – it is so difficult to describe that clear-sparkling-blue-cobalt-turquoise-perfection!

The island has no shade whatsoever, so take suncream, hats and sarongs to cover yourself.  You can walk across a shallow sandbank to a mini island with a few mangrove trees.  Be careful, the sun is hot and the walk is way longer than it looks! Dodge the sea urchins and marvel at the beautiful pansy shells and starfish that lie strewn across this stretch of sand.

It was the perfect place to end the day with an afternoon snack of bananas and bread rolls our well-deserved reward for reaching the other side of the sandbank. Stunning!